This past weekend marked an extraordinary event in New York City and more than 200 other cities around the world: Jane’s Walk. Jane’s Walk is named after Jane Jacobs, a journalist and urban activist who pushed city governments to include local residents in decisions regarding neighborhood development. As part of her efforts, she is often credited with leading opposition to the proposed construction of an expressway through Greenwich Village in Manhattan in the late 1960s, preserving that neighborhood’s character to this day. Now, every year, local volunteers take people on free tours of their neighborhoods. In New York City, those tours are coordinated by the Municipal Art Society, which also offers other tours throughout the year.
This year, there were 68 pages worth of Jane’s Walks to choose from in New York City. I decided to explore the neighborhood of East Harlem in Manhattan, also sometimes known as El Barrio. I actually took 2 walks on Saturday, both in that same neighborhood but focusing on different themes and traveling on different streets. My feet hurt by the end of it, but both walks offered rich treasures.
The first walk, which I will focus on in this post, was named “The Heritage of Italian East Harlem.” It was led by LuLu LoLo, an artist, playwright, and actor who traces her family history in East Harlem back more than 100 years. Here’s a photo of our fabulous guide for the walk.
I knew that this was going to be a fun walk, as it was like we were all great friends from the start. (Well, some people actually did know each other already – this tour attracted a number of walkers whose families had lived in the neighborhood.) Although we had plenty to see on this walk, what made it special was LuLo’s stories about growing up in the neighborhood, and her explanation of how the neighborhood has evolved over time. Much has changed in recent decades, but LuLo brought old family photos to provide a bridge between the present and her childhood memories of East Harlem.
From our starting point, LuLu drew our attention to a faded advertisement for Bloomingdales Department Store located on the side of a nearby brick building. Although the sign has faded beyond legibility, it has been there since LuLu’s earliest memories. (And LuLu admitted, upon one walker’s nosy question, that she is in her early 70s.) See if you can make out the weathered sign in the photo below.
LuLu spent some time describing the early makeup of the neighborhood, where immigrants had settled next to others from their old communities. On this street, on this block, lived the Italians from the province of Basilicata. Another street was home to Germans, another Irish, another Russian. Over here were Puerto Ricans, and shops owned by Jewish immigrants, with living quarters behind the storefronts, were there. Further down were African-American residents. I quickly came to appreciate the diversity, the complexity of East Harlem.
Along with the diverse population came complex politics. This corner, and a neighboring one before it, were known as “Lucky Corner,” the place where a stage was set up during campaign season for candidates to speak to the crowds. Want to gain the votes of the people in the neighborhood? Then you knew you had to come to Lucky Corner.
We learned about Congressman Vito Marcantonio, who earned a reputation as the protector of the working class, regardless of race or ethnicity. LuLu shared precious childhood memories of the congressman, who died of a heart attack at a young age, as well as Leonard Covello, an educator who became principal of a local high school and persuaded immigrant families to let their children go to school. As we walked along 116th Street, LuLu pointed out where these and other Italian Americans of note lived, as well as the music store that has been in the neighborhood for more than 60 years, the building formerly home to the Cosmo Theater, a row of tenement buildings where immigrant families have live generation after generation.
Soon we pass a community art project. Along one side of the art project, there is a suggestion box. Members of the community are invited to make suggestions about what the next version of the art walls will look like. The current theme: environmental concerns.
As we walk further, LuLu tells us more about her parents, Rose and Peter Pascale, who were long-time community activists. For many years, Peter ran Haarlem House, a settlement house that served the immigrant community of East Harlem. In recognition of his years of service, part of the street has been renamed Pete Pascale Place.
Here, our group stands in front of La Guardia Memorial House, built on the site of the old Haarlem House after the city determined that it needed replaced. The new community building is named after Fiorello La Guardia, onetime mayor of New York City. A senior center located on site is named after former Commissioner of Immigration Edward Corsi, another of East Harlem’s past residents.
On the side of this building we found this beautiful mosaic mural commemorating Dr. Antonia Pantoja, who spent her professional life taking care of the community of East Harlem. The mosaic is the work of local artist Manny Vega.
LuLu pointed out the former Benjamin Franklin High School building, where Leonard Covello was once principal. The building is now home to a specialized public high school known as the Manhattan Center for Science and Mathematics.
Our final stop was the Pontifical Shrine of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, one of only four Roman Catholic Churches designated as Pontifical Shrines in the Western Hemisphere. LuLu explained that Italian workmen labored to build the church in their off hours, but in the church’s early history the Italians were relegated to the basement for religious services and not allowed to worship in the main sanctuary. Unfortunately, the church’s exterior is concealed by construction scaffolding as the building undergoes repairs, so the only photo I could get outside was of this intriguing bulb-lit sign. (The shrine’s website has a photo of the building without the scaffolding, if you are interested.)
The interior was beautiful though, and here are some photos of the sanctuary and adjoining space.
At this point, the walk disbanded, and each of us went our own way. Despite my tired feet (walking on concrete has that effect!), I trekked to my next Jane’s Walk – also located in East Harlem – which was due to start soon. I’ll tell you more about that in my next blog post.
As I think about it, a Jane’s Walk is a perfect fit for Jo’s Monday Walks. Have you checked out Jo’s blog? I recommend it!
34 thoughts on “East Harlem Jane’s Walk 2017 (Part I)”
What an interesting walk Susan and great to know of it’s background and history.
What an interesting walk Susan, your vivid description felt like you were really taking me along the walk with you.
I’m glad you enjoyed it, Marion.
It’s important not to forget the little people who have strived so hard to do good things for their local area. And one of the best things they might have done was to fight off late 60s architects and developers. In two cities I know here in England, Cambridge and Nottingham, there were innumerable ancient buildings just knocked down to build high speed urban roads and shopping malls. Absolutely disgraceful. If you try google images for “petty cury Cambridge” you’ll see what I mean. It’s in the differences between the b/w photos and the coloured ones.
So much about NYC is that way as well – thankfully, people began to value what was old and special.
In Bristol (UK) it was the bombing that devastated much of the old city, and out of the rubble the developers goofed up the rest of it. The planning these days is a little more sensitive.
Fantastic walk. Despite being a walk leader myself, I have never heard of Jane’s Walks – great idea!
I will be doing them every year now. It’s a special way to get to know the city better.
What an extraordinary thing to have all those walks coordinated on one day, Susan. This was a great choice and I thoroughly enjoyed being entertained by Lulu. 🙂 For me it adds so much to a walk to hear the stories rather than have my head stuck in a guidebook. Thank you so much for kindly thinking to link to me. I’d love it if you would like part 2 as well, or is that greedy? 🙂 🙂 Wishing you a happy week!
I glad you enjoyed it, Jo. I’m hoping to finish the second walk today and will definitely be linking it as well.
I did mean link, rather than like, but either is fine 🙂 🙂
Whacko. You got to do a Jane’s Walk. I think Melbourne hosted one too. What a great idea they are: a lovely memorial. I like the way this one peopled the streets for you (and us). Hard to believe your guide is 70. It’s great to have a local guiding, one with dad’s name on a street sign to boot. I’m eager to read Part 2.
You proved yourself a great photographer of stained glass – a skill that eludes me!
Thanks, Meg. I’m glad you enjoyed it. It’s funny – I got a new cell phone recently, a Samsung Galaxy S7, and I decided to use it instead of my regular camera. It turns out that it does a great job on those stained glass windows!
I’ll have to try and beat my iPhone into submission next time I encounter stained glass.
A wonderful walk, demonstrating the breadth & lasting impact of Jane Jacobs’ life & work. As you surely know, she moved to Canada in 1968, settling in Toronto — where, as in Manhattan, she successfully led opposition to a planned expressway through the city. I’ve long known of the Jane Walks in Toronto, I’m delighted to learn they take place elsewhere. What a wonderful legacy she has, spreading more widely every year…
It really is a special thing. I hope someday to experience Jane’s Walks in other cities.
I really like oral history much better than great man history. You were very lucky to have been able to see the history from the point of view of someone who has lived it and heard about it directly.
It was a lot of fun – I felt like I ended up with a real sense of the neighborhood by the end of the walk.
Another fabulous post. I don’t know how you remember everything you see, all the details and historical stories. Wonderful.
I sometimes jot a few notes, and may do additional research either before or after. This particular tour was so engaging that most details were easy to remember though.
You’ve given me one more type of tour to take when I’m next in NYC. Thanks!
I love walking tours and this sounds amazing. To have someone so well versed in the area you are visiting who can give so much background and history is wonderful. I’m always amazed by how much we can miss when walking through an area alone. Tours can help illuminate an area in a new way. Sounds like a great day.
Great stuff, those local walks and local guides are a fantastic resource (juuuust a bit better than a wikipedia article). Thanks for sharing this one! Next time I’m in New York…
Susan thanks for highlighting my tour of East Harlem–with such great photos and in such detail. I loved sharing my history of East Harlem
LuLu, I so enjoyed the tour and tried to do it justice in my post. You’ve really piqued my interest in learning more about East Harlem.
it’s so nice to trek away from the tourist hotspots thank you for sharing these hidden gems it will make our next visit to NYC more fun to discover thank you Susan
Your post are always so intriguing… it seems every time I started to read this particular post I’ve had to stop and do something for someone, etc. so yea…this morning it was like my special treat to myself – I really love reading your posts!! This was such a fun read!!! LOVE the photos too!!
Really glad you enjoyed it! This was a fun one to experience firsthand and write about.
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What a wonderful, diverse community and area!
Great post, and the photos are wonderful! I love how you included the history and complexity of the community within your post.
I love the concept of the Jane’s Walk, Susan – such an inspiring idea and fascinating to discover more about a neighbourhood and the stories and personalities behind it. Great photos and a wonderful insight into the East Harlem community 🙂
I’m glad you enjoyed it. I’ve become a real fan of the Jane’s Walks and can’t wait to explore new neighborhoods next year.