It’s a cold, snowy day in New York City, and I thought it was the perfect time to take you on a stroll of Rockefeller Park (albeit on a warmer, sunny Autumn day!). The park, named after former New York state governor and Vice President Nelson A. Rockefeller, is often not on visitors’ radar. As you’ll see from this post, I think it really should be, as it offers a peaceful, relaxing walk with a variety of sensory experiences – the soothing sounds and sights of water, iconic views of the Statue of Liberty and interesting architecture, the stimulation of seeing wildlife, gardens, and public art. Outside of Central Park and the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, Rockefeller Park is probably my favorite outdoor space in the city.
So let’s start our tour. I usually take the subway to the World Trade Center area, near the Oculus transportation hub. Once we exit the station, we head west on Vesey Street toward the Hudson River, a walk of just a few blocks. Along the way, we pass One World Trade Center and the 9/11 Memorial, Brookfield Place (an indoor shopping center), and the Irish Hunger Memorial.
We’ve now arrived at the Hudson River, which stretches along the west side of Manhattan. We have officially entered Rockefeller Park. Here, let’s briefly turn left and walk a short distance. There are two tall, narrow sculptural columns, titled Pylons, created by sculptor Martin Puryear. (Remember Martin Puryear? He created the wonderful elephant sculpture in Madison Square Park, shown in this previous blog post.)
As we look across the water, we spy the Statue of Liberty in the distance. A little to the right is the former immigration center turned historical site and museum, Ellis Island. And further in the distance, that’s New Jersey!
Turning back and walking in the other direction, we enter the main part of Rockefeller Park. First, we discover the lily pond, the sound of the small waterfall along its one side creating a sense of zen. It’s too late in the season for water lilies, but there are some wild Mallard ducks taking a swim.
Along the edge of the lily pond, we spot this poem by Mark Strand, “The Continuous Life”:
What of the neighborhood homes awash
In a silver light, of children hunched in the bushes,
Watching the grown-ups for signs of surrender,
Signs that the irregular pleasures of moving
From day to day, of being adrift on the swell of duty,
Have run their course? O parents, confess
To your little ones the night is a long way off
And your taste for the mundane grows; tell them
Your worship of household chores has barely begun;
Describe the beauty of shovels and rakes, brooms and mops;
Say there will always be cooking and cleaning to do,
That one thing leads to another, which leads to another;
Explain that you live between two great darks, the first
With an ending, the second without one, that the luckiest
Thing is having been born, that you live in a blur
Of hours and days, months and years, and believe
It has meaning, despite the occasional fear
You are slipping away with nothing completed, nothing
To prove you existed. Tell the children to come inside,
That your search goes on for something you lost—a name,
A family album that fell from its own small matter
Into another, a piece of the dark that might have been yours,
You don’t really know. Say that each of you tries
To keep busy, learning to lean down close and hear
The careless breathing of earth and feel its available
Languor come over you, wave after wave, sending
Small tremors of love through your brief,
Undeniable selves, into your days, and beyond.
As we walk further, there are some Canadian Geese gathered on the expansive green lawn. They are probably taking a break as they make their way south for the winter. On another day, we might see many other birds, but our focus today turns in a different direction.
Coming up, The Pavilion, by artist Demetri Porphyrios, is nearby. I always find its architectural details interesting. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s the site of weddings in warmer months.
We’re coming to my favorite part of the park – an enclosed area filled with bronze sculptures by Tom Otterness. Does the style seem familiar? I’ve written about other Tom Otterness sculptures, found in the 14th Street/8th Avenue subway station, here. You can choose to view these sculptures as whimsical, or look closer to find the darker commentary on the financial system. It’s up to you. Otterness titled this collection of sculptures The Real World. Some of the sculptures are in plain sight, while others take a little closer look to discover. Here are some examples of what we find.
I love how these sculptures invite visitors to interact with them. On a busier day, I can see children playing around them, people eating their lunches next to them. Today, we catch these two visitors looking at their cell phones, as they sit next to a phone sculpture!
We still aren’t done – there are autumn flowers in the gardens to enjoy. Let’s see what we discover there.
We’re reaching the far end of the park now. Ready to take a break? We can sit a while on these benches, maybe watching the anchored boats bob in the water, or read another chapter in the book we tucked into our bag. If we squint as we look into the distance, we might even catch a glimpse of the Empire State Building!
Well, our walk is at its end for today. Thank you for joining me!
Although today is not a Monday, I think this is a good walk for Jo’s Monday Walks. Have you checked out Jo’s blog? If you haven’t, I know you will enjoy it. Unfortunately, I don’t meet the January theme for Jude’s Garden Challenge, having discussed an Autumn garden instead of a Winter one, but her blog is definitely worth checking out as well!
Wow I have to visit this park! It looks so lovely, thanks for sharing.
I have to visit this park! Looks so pretty and your photos are so beautiful!
What a lovely leisurely walk through such varied pleasures – especially for this housebound hypochondriac! It’s beautifully written too. You’ve offered another lovely poem from the public domain: I’ll save it alongside “Sunslant low”. The sculptures are great, as are the prospects and the autumn flowers. A perfect walk for Jo. Thank you.
What a superb walk! I love the way it laps along the waterfront with those enormous views. Thanks a lot for sharing. Hope 2017 is a good one for you xx
As always, so interesting. We just don’t have so many sculptures around the place over here in England. One or two very big ones like the Angel of the North, but we just don’t have as many little ones to discover as you do.
What a lovely place for a stroll – your vivid descriptions made me feel as if I was walking alongside you.
I love those sculptures! I’ve been out to Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty but not walked through this park.
I love all parks in New York but Central Park is my favorite.
Those are some really dark statues!! I really like the chess board and the penny statues. It is always cool to find hidden treasures like this.The isn’t dark but certainly real life.
I really wanted you to know that I enjoy your blog. Keep it up
Thank you! I’m so glad you enjoy it.
I used to eat my lunch there sometimes when I was working at 1 World Financial Center. Here are a few photos of mine https://port4u.net/2016/06/12/battery-and-financial/
Fabulous post…more things to see next time we cross the pond. The sculptures are wonderful and witty.
The sculptures are special! I really enjoyed watching them. We have a bit similar idea implemented in town Wrocław in Poland. The city is full of little dwarfs and even the tour of dwarfs was created to guide people along the main monuments of the town. You can see a few of thse creatures in my sister’s post: https://atelierazure.net/2016/11/12/tiny-people-wpc/.
I love the little dwarf statues! Public art like this always makes me smile. Thanks for sharing.
You are a brilliant writer, photographer and tour guide. The inclusion of the poem brought me to tears. Not in a bad way. Just so moved by your observations and the amazing way you tie everything together into such a compact, yet expansive package of delight.
What an incredible park. I love the bronze sculptures.
Love it all, was especially drawn to the Tom Otterness sculptures, then got thinking that name (& style) seemed familiar. And yes! We have one of his works here in Toronto — google Tom Otterness Toronto, or The Immigrant Family Otterness, and you’ll the piece. (It’s at 18 Yonge St, for anyone here.) Thanks for showing me more of his remarkable work.
I just Googled it – what a great statue! Thanks for making me aware of it. Definitely something I will have to see in person when I travel to Toronto sometime.
yes, a distinctive style, and such compassion & tenderness
The bronze sculptures are so interesting. I especially love the penny. What a wonderful outdoor space Rockefeller Park is.
This is a bit udnerrated. I haven’t been in so long, must visit again!
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The statutes are great and so distinctive, I knew they were Otterness before I read his name. I have seen his work in the Netherlands (I think you read the post) and really like his style.
Wow those sculptures are so much fun, and also quite extraordinary. Thoroughly enjoyed my stroll through the park with you, now have got to go back and play with the sculptures again 🙂